11x15 cabin build part 6

The cabin roof is framed with roughsawn 2x6 rafters and a 3x8 ridge beam. In the photo below some rafters were initially left out to make it easier to set the logs that fill in the gables. 







Here the gable logs are going in. They are stacked with just some spacers in between, The first two interior rafters are against the gable logs. The logs are held in place with nails driven through the rafters.
I placed the logs, nailed them and then cut them flush with the chainsaw. It was tough making these cuts yup there. Next time I would mark them and then take them down and cut them on the ground.
You can also see where I notched the top edge of the top logs. I should not have cut those notches. Later, I reattached the little scraps to replace teh wood there.



This is one I did cut on the ground. The notch is for the ridge. It is oversized to make it possible to chink.





Here is a view from the inside.









Below, the gable logs have all been placed, the remaining rafters have been set and 1x6 planking is being installed.  Later, the ends of the planks were trimmed to overhang the gable rafters by 1.5 inches.



Time to nail on the shingles. Here I have fastened a 2x2 to temporarily hold the first course of shingles.



One thing that I failed to do was to place shingle underlayment on the planks. This is an important step that should be performed in order to prevent moisture from reaching the planks.

The shingles are positioned with about 1/4" gap between each. This is to allow them to expand and contract with changes in moisture..



The first course gets a second layer of shingles. The gaps for this layer should be at least 1.5 inches from the gaps in the underlying shingles.


4 penny galvanized nails are driven 3/4" from each edge of the shingle and 6 inches up from the bottom. Initially, I snapped chalklines at 6 inches up. Later I realized that the shingle hatchet has a yellow band on the handle at 6 inches. By using that to gage the nail location, I was able to speed up the process.  



Next comes the second course. I ripped some boards to the shingle exposure dimension (4.5 inches for this roof). The board foms a ledge for couse #2.








Once you get started, it is just a matter of repeating the steps. Note that only the first course is a double layer.
Many of the shingles in the bundles are very wide. It is necessary to split these so that no shingle is larger than 9 inches wide. Otherwise, it will probably split later which could occur over an underlying gap and cause a leak.









 







 

Go on to page 7
Return to How-To Page